Weekly Dud: Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream Review

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disappointment pom is disappointed

My second weekly dud post. I got a little behind but lets get this train back on the tracks with a good old review of what these posts are.

This isn’t the first time I’ve spoken about dud products. I made a #weekofduds post on my instagram about this product and others that I tout as being:

Products I bought because I thought they would work well and I wanted them to work well but in the end they didn’t.

I’ve seen many an unliked or unloved product get advertised as being terrible, awful and worth less than nothing. Now I’m sure there are some products out there that are formulated terribly for human skin, but I tend to side more with the group that says hey, not every ingredient or formulation will work for every single person #reality. Some ingredients do well for dry skin, others do well for those with cystic acne and some may only target blackheads. I think simply adding “YMMV” (your mileage may vary) at the end of a post without some thought as to why it worked well or didn’t for you is not useful. That’s why I have my profile on my side bar, but I will try to ensure I put my skin type and concerns in review posts from here on out. Reading a glowing review without knowledge of a person’ s skin type, issues or sensitives may find you buying a product that won’t work for you at all. Which is what I’ve done many times over. Now I’m a little more cognizant of ingredients…. but its pretty evident from my Instagram that packaging lures me in strongly as well.

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What a cute little dent. Thanks eBay seller for packing my jar up so well!

My skin type

  • Dry Skin
  • Non- Sensitive (literally have not reacted to hundreds of products over the course of my lifetime)
  • Concerns
    • blackheads around the chin and on nose
    • The occasional pimple
    • inhibiting wrinkle formation
    • preventing cancer
    • consuming pounds of artificial sweetener
mmm white packaging with brush script

mmm white packaging with brush script

Why did I buy this?

Maybe I should start with when and where. Back in June of 2015 I went to my usual late night party shop called eBay (you might not have heard of it). Got it for 25 dollars with free shipping. So why, well I saw a review on the r/asianbeauty subreddit by Snowwhite and the Azn pear and she said it was whitening and highly moisturizing so I was like, perhaps this will work for my dry skin. This was during the development of my skin type knowledge and I should have taken the time to investigate what her skin is like. Oh well.

Later on Memebox started carrying this cream advertising its amazingness as follows:

A multifunctional skincare cream that embraces natural oriental beauty by giving you fair, soft and youthful skin. Infused with premium natural ingredients including Korean ginseng and orchid extract, this cream is rich in high quality nutrients beneficial to the skin’s improvement. It provides proper moisture to keep the skin beautifully glowy all throughout the day while also balancing melanin production to enhance complexion. This also serves as an excellent anti-aging cream as it effectively firms and improves elasticity of the skin to diminish appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

What’s in it?

Now that memebox finally updated the ingredient list I put it in cosdna

Ingredient Function Acne Irritant Safety
Water

Solvent
1
Glycerin

Solvent
Moisturizer
0 0
2
Butylene Glycol

Solvent
Moisturizer
1 0
1
Niacinamide

1
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

1
Sodium Hyaluronate

Moisturizer 0 0
1
Xanthan Gum

Viscosity Control
1
Cyclopentasiloxane

Solvent
Emollient
3
Cyclohexasiloxane

Solvent
Emollient
2
Polyacrylate-13

2
Polyisobutene

Viscosity Control
1
Polysorbate 20

Surfactant
Emulsifier
0 0
3
Stearyl Alcohol

Surfactant
Viscosity Control
2 2
1
Behenyl Alcohol

Viscosity Control
1
Dimethicone/
Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Viscosity Control
1
Dimethicone

Emollient 1 0
1
Adenosine

1
Glyceryl Stearate SE

Emulsifier 3 2
1
Cetearyl Alcohol

Surfactant
Viscosity Control
Emulsifier
2 2
1
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Emulsifier
1
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/
1 dimethicone

Emulsifier
3
Stearic Acid

Surfactant
Viscosity Control
Emulsifier
2 0
1
Tocopheryl Acetate

Moisturizer
Antioxidant
0 0
3
Sodium Polyacrylate

Viscosity Control
3
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Solvent
Fragrance
Emollient
Plant extract
2 0
1
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Fragrance
Antioxidant
Emollient
Plant extract
0 0
1
Centella Asiatica Extract

Anti-inflammatory
1
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Emollient
Plant extract
1
Human Oligopeptide-1

1
Argania spinosa Kernel Oil

Emollient
1
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Moisturizer
Emollient
1
Ceramide 3

Moisturizer
1
Trehalose

Moisturizer
1
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Fragrance
1
Caprylhydroxamic acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Solvent
1
Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract

Moisturizer
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

1
Cucurbitaceae Extract

Orchid Extract

Emollient
1
Honey Extract

Moisturizer
1
Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Plant extract
1
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Fragrance 0 0
1
Phytosphingosine

1
Ceteareth-20

Surfactant
Emulsifier
3
Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/
oleate

Emulsifier
1
Parfum

Fragrance
1
~
4
Hydrogenated Lecithin C14-28 Alkyl Acid no matched results

How did I use this?

After patch testing this product which for me takes between 12-24 hours of applying it to the sensitive skin of my neck and jaw I proceeded to use it as my main cream moisturizer.

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check out dat cream

You can see that it has not what I would call a cream texture, more a sticky cream/gel texture. This should have alerted me to its moisturizing capabilities

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Some people call this chewey. I’m not sure why. I eat Korean Rice cakes and they are chewey and nothing like this.

 

Look at it on my hand... showing you... basically nothing useful

Look at it on my hand… showing you… basically nothing useful

And I used it for a month straight and then off and on. And what did I find?

  • Does it moisturize?
    • Sort of. I kept seeing people say ohh it’s RICH and CREAMY…. no and no. Not to me and my dry skin. This for me is maybe an emulsion level of moisture. It contains ceramides and some plant oils but I don’t think the concentration is high enough for my skin. I found myself drying out midday and if I was wearing makeup this would be a nightmare. When you have to start adding more creams and emulsions to make a cream work… you know something is not right.
  • Does it Brighten?
    • Yeah no. I don’t think the Niacinamide content here is enough for brightening. I could have done before and after photos but this was a year ago and it was such a lackluster moisturizer I haven’t been compelled to try it again.
    • What I did find was that other products tend to blend well with the cream. There was one serum I had that exhibited some overnight brightening effects when mixed with the Dynasty cream and it was the a.g.e. stop Switzerland product I bought because I wanted to try snow algae and the price was right.
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  • Yo there is some anti-inflammatory ingredients!
    • So for this I did do some side tests on pimples, bug bites and sunburn. Didn’t seem to have an effect on any of them.
  • What about the scent? This is Hanbang ~ does it smell herbal?
    • Oh yes it smells herbal like cucumber melon scented baby powder. So no, I wouldn’t say this smells herbal in the way I’m used to Korean herbal concoctions (which is to say I generally get the overwhelming scent of ginseng)

And for the WAIT A MINUTE MOMENT… you have a full jar. You are a Liar Peepingpomeranian. Your review is bogus

Oh I am prepared

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*Disappointment Intensifies*

Yes I have 2 jars you internet gangsters. 2 jars of underwhelming ‘hanbang’ cream. And look one is empty.

In my early days of Instagram one of my followers, who was also new, said the cream didn’t work for her and wanted to gift it to me since she saw it on my feed and we chatted a lot on the gram. So did the extra love of an internet stranger improve the cream? No, can’t say it did. But now I have a jar with a lid that’s not broken. And cream to put on my arms or legs or whatever. And a memory of a kind gesture. #woot

I also took the time to ask her (@mindyourbeauty on instagram) why she didn’t like the cream/why it didn’t work for her and here is what she said:

I had the opportunity to try the famed Joseon cream several months ago. Like most, I fell face first for that packaging! However, at that time my skin goals consisted first & foremost of barrier strengthening. That being said, the long complex ingredients in the product were, unbeknownst to me, problematic. I thought that a heavy hitter of plant extracts & other seemingly great emollients would be a great fit. Well, what I have learned is when you are focusing on barrier strengthening, simple is better, & often complex to work out ingredients can trigger otherwise. Weak barriers make for sensitive skin. I reacted with redness & irritation and I still cannot pinpoint what the trigger was. My barrier today is strong & non sensitive. I possibly wouldn’t have the same reaction but I’ve moved onto other moisturizers at this point.

I still remember speaking to her about one of the main downfalls with Hanbang products in that they tend to have lots of plant extracts, which can be great so long as you don’t react to any of them. Because if you do react… it’s going to be near impossible to know what ingredient made your skin mad.

So who might this work for?

From what I’ve seen from other reviews (all anecdotal)

  • normal/combo skin and possibly oily skin in search of something creamier than a gel, but not as thick as most creams run
  • Those with dehydrated skin
  • Those who are not sensitive to the plant extracts listed above

I haven’t seen much compelling evidence for brightening/anti-inflammatory effect. But hey, that’s what serums and ampoules are for.

Searching for that last bit of Happiness

Searching for that last bit of Happiness

Did I learn anything?

Uh, it didn’t break me out or cause me to have a rash. So I got that going for me. It definitely started me down the path of getting pickier about checking reviewers skin types before jumping on bandwagons. I think this product might work well for those who’s skin does actually produce some oil on its own. But if you’re like me, and as dry as the desert even when you’re in a humid place maybe look elsewhere for moisture. Which is probably going to be easy to do since rumor has it this cream is being discontinued.

So am I mad? Will I say this is crap? No, I just don’t think it works that well for me and probably won’t work well for others like me. I’m glad I tried it and can share my experience. Maybe some of the information here can help someone else make a good decision for their skin or their wallet

Cheers








12 Comments

  1. hottotrotsky

    Glad I’m not the only one. I have super dry/dehydrated skin and this just did a whole lot of nothing for me. Didn’t make my skin worse, didn’t make it better. Anything about 15 usd is *expensive* for me, and if it’s expensive, I want to see some visible improvement,

    • Peepingpomeranian

      High five fellow dud-experiencer. You know I think the 15 dollar realm can bring on some very quality products. And when I start hitting the higher priced categories…. oh man… I may not be so objective in my dud reviews lol

  2. Hehe as said before, I really loved it…but because have combination/dehydrated skin. It lasted a lot, because used a little amount everynight since was too heavy for summer, but during Winter switched to day and was really good too (better than the Mizon that pilled with sunblock).
    Now was looking for the Freeset donkey cream you told me, but only Memebox sell it. And I’m tempted about the Cosrx BHA cream, because summer is near T_T

    Oh, and I could never identify the scent, for me was more like yogurt xD

  3. The nuggets of humor in here were like finding Easter eggs. ? I have dry and dehydrated skin and had the same feeling. Meh. Haven’t even brought myself to post a review on the blog cuz it’s so meh. Doesn’t moisturize enough and it actually didn’t play well with some of my cushions and sunscreens. –Angela

  4. Missbabakiss

    Yay! A blog of how I feel and my experience with the product! I thought the “cheweniss” is a good thing and expect more from this product because of the cute packaging, but no its not a moisturizer I was expecting! Thank you for the informative ingredients table you got! I enjoyed reading it! Fun blog indeed 🙂 Will subscribe now!

  5. I tested out the cream on two spots on my face overnight on different day. I woke up with a red film each time where I applied it to, which can be rug off with force with warm water. The problem is that it left my skin a bit red and my tiny blackhead seem more noticeable, but my skin is a bit smoother. Had anyone had this reaction? I have no idea if I should keep using it.

    • If you’re testing the product on your face and it is causing reddness this is not a good reaction. Redness is a sign of inflammation and you are likely sensitive to an ingredient in the cream. I would not recommend you use this cream or any skincare product that causes irritation on your face.

  6. Brauwin

    I think this is definitely a product that works better for oily skin types. My sister couldn’t get it in Canada do I bought one from Memebox and sent it to her. She raved about it so much I bought myself a jar. It’s been a Holy grail for both of us but weer both have oily skin. Mine is oily and dehydrated and hers it oily and sensitive. Just goes to show you that with skin care YMMV is really true

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