Clabiane Skincare Review & A quick look at what γ-PGA can do for you

 

Saturday morning routine because I think it’s been awhile and I have a couple new things . . . 1.#Cleanser #atoclassic real tonic soothing multi cleanser 2.#Toner #cosrx AHA/BHA clarifying treatment toner 3.#Active #timeless vitamin C + FE 4. New! #hydratingtoner #clabiane revitalizing toner from @kokofash features gamma PGA (which is probably from natto) and ceramides. 5. #serum timeless matrixyl 3000 for moar collagen 6. #ampoule #ladykin phytoplan broccoli wrinkle radiance power ampoule 7. #essence atoclassic #realtonic soothing origin essence 8. #lotion atovlassic real tonic calming smart lotion 9. New! #cream clabiane PGA cream also from @kokofash for that super hydration 10. #hydrocolloid cuz I picked at a couple blackheads on my chin ? my favorite the cosrx patches 11. #sunscreen not pictured #biore waterproof . . . #rasianbeauty #asianbeauty #koreanbeauty #koreanskincare #koreancosmetic #kbeauty #instablogger #instablogging #instabeautyblogging #routine #skincare #뷰티

A photo posted by 에이미 ~ 후후후후 (@peepingpomeranian) on

Back in June of 2016 after I had started using and testing out Atoclassic skincare, Kokofash sent me some new products to try from the Clabiane brand. I had used them each for a month straight and liked them so much I continued to use them throughout the summer. And since I’m the champion of reviewing things in a timely manner, here we are in 2017 finally sharing my thoughts on the brand and soy in skincare.

Brand Background

Taken from the Kokofash website. Check out dem beanz

So who is Clabiane? Well in looking around the interwebs I found their parent company Won Medical CO., LTD.

WON MEDCO CO., LTD. was established in 2005 that carries professional cosmetics and esthetic equipment. Our sister company WON TECH Corp., a world’s leading laser equipment company and Bio Leaders, are in close cooperation in product development. Our partnered lab, esthetitian and dermatologists have been establishing ideal formula for unique and effective skin care products for over 2 years.

Our cosmetics, CLABIANE mainly focus on Anti-aging based on gamma-PGA, a nature-derived ingredient from soybean fermentation material. This has superb moisturizing effect, enhances skin elasticity, anti-wrinkle effect and etc.

There are various trends in global cosmetics market but there are few ingredients that shows actual efficacy. We use ingredient that has clinical data and comparative study by trusted clinical centers. ‘Chungkukjang’ is a Korean traditional material which can only be seen anywhere but in Korea. This special ingredient are first developed for direct intake to function of immunity such as suppress cancer cells. Gamma-PGA also does superb moisturizing even better than hyaluronic acid. Our guaranteed quality of both ingredients and final products will assure skin enhancement for customers.

CLABIANE is mainly marketed through professional clinics and esthetics based on its scientific support in Korea. It is widely covered in medical magazines such as D&PS, Medical S, Doctor’s and etc. Our finest quality cosmetics are beginning to spread in global markets with interested partners. Begin aboard K-beauty wave with CLABAINE.

And this matches with what Kokofash presented to me which was a line developed with dermotologists originally for their patients then released to the mass market. If you do look at the Korean advertisements you’ll notice a couple things are consistent with their brand, specifically which ingredients they include in pretty much every product in their “W-line” / PGA line

They exclude 5 ingredients

  • Paraben
  • Ethanol
  • Artificial Color
  • Mineral Oil
  • Synthetic Silicon

And in each product they include

  • Polyglutamic acid (PGA)
  • Gamma Oligopeptide
  • EGF
  • Portulaca Extract
  • Ceramide

However when I scan the ingredients, they just list Polyglutamic Acid (which I believe is the gamma-PGA on the labeling) and Oligopeptide-1 (EGF). This really isn’t a big issue, since I feel like the Marketing is just trying to dive home the star ingredient (PGA) to its consumers.

Overall seems like they are focused on hydration and using some ingredients that will help repair the skin’s barrier like ceramides in addition to having an anti-aging benefit through the inclusion of EGF. And like every other review, before I begin

My skin type

  • Dry Skin
  • Non- Sensitive (literally have not reacted to hundreds of products over the course of my lifetime)
  • Concerns
    • a few pronounced sebaceous filaments on the nose
    • The occasional pimple
    • inhibiting wrinkle formation
    • preventing cancer
    • getting through rough winter weather

Clabiane Revitalizing Toner

What this claims to do:

Naturally fermented substance, Polyglutamic Acid (γ-PGA), retains hydration while Ceramide moisturizes skin with refreshed feeling. Apply every morning and evening after cleansing.

How to use: After cleansing face, apply either directly onto skin or use cotton pads.

What it’s like

  • Scent: pretty faint, and like a fresh generic lotion
  • Texture: a little thicker than water, but still very runny
  • Absorption: pretty quick
  • Finish: Softens skin, and leaves a very slight velvety feeling behind

How I used this:

I applied in the AM & PM as a hydrating toner. So this means in the PM I would cleanse > use a low pH toner > use my actives > and then use the Clabiane toner

And the reason why I did not use this before my actives was because the pH wasn’t as low as I am used to. And if you do use hydrating toners you will often notice that they do have higher pHs (not basic but generally around 6).

the classic shaker top

The Ingredients (which I loaded onto CosDNA as usual)

Ingredient Function Acne Irritant Safety
Water

‧Solvent
1
Dipropylene glycol

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
1
Propanediol

‧Solvent
‧Viscosity Control
1
Butylene Glycol

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
1 0
1
Phenoxyethanol

‧Preservative
4
PPG-26-Buteth-26

‧Antistatic
‧Emulsifier
2
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

‧Surfactant
‧Emulsifier
3
Polyglutamic Acid

‧Moisturizer
1
Chlorphenesin

‧Preservative
2
Portulaca Oleracea Extract

1
Carbomer

‧Viscosity Control 0 1
1
Potassium Hydroxide

‧pH Adjusters
3
Disodium EDTA

1
Methylsilanol Mannuronate

‧Moisturizer
1
Hydrogenated lecithin

‧Emulsifier
2
Linoleic Acid

‧Antistatic
‧Emollient
1
Glycerin

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
0 0
2
Ceramide 3

‧Moisturizer
1
TEA-COCOYL GLUTAMATE

‧Surfactant
2
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

‧Fragrance
1
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

‧Emollient
1
Oligopeptide-1

1
Perfume

‧Fragrance
1
~
4

Overall

I really liked it. It was the first hydrating toner that absorbed well AND plumped my skin the way hydrating toners are meant to. Growing up in the states you think of toners as just being astringent, things that are better for acneic or oily skin. A hydrating toner is one of those products that you subtly start to realize make a quick and effective change in your routine. Just one quick step gives me enough hydration to blur any fine lines. A+

Clabiane Anti-Wrinkle Hydro Filler

Does anyone else just love dropper bottles? They’re not as efficient as airless pumps but that classic feel. mmm mmmm.

What this claims to do:

Polyglutamic Acid (γ-PGA) retains hydration while Adenosine moisturizes and tightens skin.

What it’s like

  • Scent: the same fresh generic lotion, not really strong
  • Texture: a lightweight gel
  • Absorption: surprisingly fast for a gel
  • Finish: just sliiiiightly tacky, but I assume that’s due to it being a gel. Otherwise it is still pretty smooth

How to use:

Apply onto eyes or saggy area every morning and night, is the recommended use.

I just applied it to my whole face and neck.

Ingredients

The Ingredients (which I loaded onto CosDNA as usual)

Ingredient Function Acne Irritant Safety
Water

‧Solvent
1
Glycerin

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
0 0
2
Butylene Glycol

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
1 0
1
Sodium Acrylate/
Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

‧Viscosity Control
1
Isohexadecane

‧Solvent
‧Emollient
1
Polysorbate 80

‧Surfactant
‧Emulsifier
0 0
3
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

‧Surfactant
3
Portulaca Oleracea Extract

1
Polyglutamic Acid

‧Moisturizer
1
Phenoxyethanol

‧Preservative
4
Chlorphenesin

‧Preservative
2
Carbomer

‧Viscosity Control 0 1
1
Xanthan Gum

‧Viscosity Control
1
Potassium Hydroxide

‧pH Adjusters
3
Adenosine

1
Disodium EDTA

1
Methylsilanol Mannuronate

‧Moisturizer
1
Oligopeptide-1

1
Hydrogenated lecithin

‧Emulsifier
2
Linoleic Acid

‧Antistatic
‧Emollient
1
Ceramide 3

‧Moisturizer
1
TEA-COCOYL GLUTAMATE

‧Surfactant
2
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

‧Fragrance
1
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

‧Emollient
1
Perfume

‧Fragrance
1
~
4

Overall

This product, when used in conjunction with the toner and cream seemed most effective at diminishing the fine lines which were on my forehead. I don’t have very deep furrows from raising my eyebrows but I do have some short lines (I guess I side-eye more than raise my eyebrows). I think if I was using this as my only product between a toner and a cream I might notice other benefits, but since I’m always using a longer routine, all I can report are plumping effects. What I will say to this products benefit is that with twice daily use, one dropper will easily last a month if you are applying it to your whole face like I was. So you can easily get 5 solid months out of this package if not more, since I am heavy handed too.

Clabiane PGA Cream

The old packaging is silver

What this claims to do

High performance cream with Polyglutamic Acid (γ-PGA) that nourishes your skin with deep hydration

What it’s like

  • Scent: yet again I have a hard time placing the scent. It’s not very strong. Same ‘fresh’ lotion aroma
  • Texture: medium weight cream, kinda reminds me of the primary raw doyou cream or the Beauty of Joseon Dynasty cream
  • Absorption: pretty well for a cream, doesn’t just sit on the skin aka not entirely occlusive
  • Finish: hydrated and velvety
  • I did want to bring back some images from my Primary raw review to show you some texture comparisons

    the Clabiane is the creamiest of the three; Joseon and Primary Raw are more stringy. But they all kinda have the same finish

How I used it

After using lotion apply cream on your face and smoothen with gentle outward strokes. Apply every morning and night

As a person with dry skin I used this both AM and PM. I suppose if you have oily skin, you might opt to not use this cream during the AM, but it’s not an oily formula > mainly hydrating so I think erryone can benefit from this especially if your climate is dry.

Ingredients

The Ingredients (which I loaded onto CosDNA as usual)

Ingredient Function Acne Irritant Safety
Water

‧Solvent
1
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

‧Synthetic ester
‧Viscosity Control
‧Emollient
1
Glycerin

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
0 0
2
Dipropylene glycol

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
1
Sodium Hyaluronate

‧Moisturizer 0 0
1
Butylene Glycol

‧Solvent
‧Moisturizer
1 0
1
Cetearyl Alcohol

‧Surfactant
‧Viscosity Control
‧Emulsifier
2 2
1
Glyceryl Stearate

‧Emollient
‧Emulsifier
PEG-100 Stearate

‧Surfactant 1 0
3
Portulaca Oleracea Extract

1
Dimethicone

‧Emollient 1 0
1
Polysorbate 60

‧Surfactant
‧Emulsifier
3
Sorbitan Stearate

‧Emulsifier 0 1
1
Phenoxyethanol

‧Preservative
4
Polyglutamic Acid

‧Moisturizer
1
Carbomer

‧Viscosity Control 0 1
1
Chlorphenesin

‧Preservative
2
Potassium Hydroxide

‧pH Adjusters
3
Hydrogenated lecithin

‧Emulsifier
2
Linoleic Acid

‧Antistatic
‧Emollient
1
Ceramide 3

‧Moisturizer
1
TEA-COCOYL GLUTAMATE

‧Surfactant
2
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

‧Fragrance
1
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

‧Emollient
1
Disodium EDTA

1
Methylsilanol Mannuronate

‧Moisturizer
1
Oligopeptide-1

1
Perfume

‧Fragrance
1
~
4

Overall

I really enjoyed this cream. It’s pretty gentle in my opinion, but is one of the better hydrating formulas I’ve encountered. I find it hydrating enough that I do wake up with firmer skin when I use it at night and if I know I will be out and about all day I can use it in the AM and not really have to worry about misting etc.

And now for something completely different

What is Gamma – PGA and why do I care?

Ingredient spotlight

Check out this sassy polymer

Gamma Polyglutamic Acid (γ-PGA) was first discovered in 1937 by some Microbiologists (#represent) through work with the bacterium Bacillus anthracis, but you can also find it outside of lab in the mucilage of Natto; the fermented soybean dish from Japan (1) But I know you’re not here for history, you want to get to some specifics.

There are quite a few medical applications for γ-PGA. Some involve ingestion for drug delivery, but what I find most interesting since it kind of relates to skincare is its use in wound dressings. There are a lot of different dressings/coverings that can be used with wounds and to address it simply you want the wound to stay moist to heal faster. Since γ-PGA was a natural polymer (i.e. it makes chains of itself > allows us to make nice layer of it) that posesses high water retaining properties it made sense to test it out as part of a dressing material. And so they did, they made a chitosan & γ-PGA fabric dressing which accelerated wound healing, but equally important was able to be removed easily without damaging the newly grown tissue. (2,3)

In terms of cosmetics there are also a few applications. γ-PGA is an excellent humectant, especially when compared to collagen and hyaluronic acid it seems to be better at attracting and holding onto water. The ability to form a film/layer on skin seems to be what allows it offer that enhanced hydration, but apparently skin elasticity is increased as well. γ-PGA was also shown to increase natural moisturizing factors like pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid and urocanic acid. Where it gets really interesting is that γ-PGA has some hyaluronidase inhibition abilities. (4) Hyaluronic acid (which I’m sure most of you are familiar with as a topical ingredient) is present within our dermis and hyaluronidase is an enzyme that degrades hyaluronic acid in our dermis. The benefit of inhibiting this is that you maintain your skin’s elasticity from within. Normally I would think γ-PGA would be too large to get through the epidermis, but we gotta wait for more research to come out since this was all tied to a patent application. (5)

In the end, I’m a little skeptical on the ability of γ-PGA to make its way into Dermis, unless they chopped it up real small. But even with just applying it topically it seems to be one of those wonderful ingredients that should help fix hydration issues. The last thing I did want to mention was one patent I found went HAM on claiming pretty much every cosmetic application of γ-PGA you could think of, but at least their patent application does a great job of outlining the benefits of PGA and its topical application (check it out here https://www.google.com/patents/US20090110705)

And back to the goods

Final Thoughts

In the end, I really liked this brand. I found it to be a moisturizing line that was very comfortable to wear both AM and PM. If I had to choose just one product, I would pick the toner. If I had to pick two it would be the toner and the cream. I think that the cream is one of those that even oily skinned people would appreciate since even a thin layer is quite moisturizing (probably due to the γ-PGA).

If you’re interested in trying these out yourself you can get them from Kokofash (who also sponsored these goods)

Thank you for reading

Cheers

References

  1. The production of poly-(γ-glutamic acid) from microorganisms and its various applications

    Bioresource Technology, Volume 79, Issue 3, September 2001, Pages 207-225

  2. Evaluation of chitosan/γ-poly(glutamic acid) polyelectrolyte complex for wound dressing materials

    Carbohydrate Polymers, Volume 84, Issue 2, 1 March 2011, Pages 812-819
    Ching Ting Tsao, , Chih Hao Chang, , Yu Yung Lin, , Ming Fung Wu, , Jaw Lin Wang, , Tai Horng Young, , Jin Lin Han, , Kuo Haung Hsieh

  3. An enhancement on healing effect of wound dressing: Acrylic acid grafted and gamma-polyglutamic acid/chitosan immobilized polypropylene non-woven

    Materials Science and Engineering: C, Volume 29, Issue 5, 1 June 2009, Pages 1715-1724
    Chyung-Chyung Wang, , Ching-Hua Su, , Jong-Pyng Chen, , Cheng-Chi Chen,

  4. γ-Poly glutamic acid: a novel peptide for skin care. , 65–74.
  5. Hyaluronidase inhibitor containing poly-gamma-glutamic acid as an effective component. US Patent 12/090,678.




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